Dash Wiring Finished

...almost at least. Not a whole lot to see here but I'm providing a visual anyway (please note that I tucked the harness away after taking this photo).

I decided to man up and brave the cold to get the remaining wiring out of the way. This consisted of tying the female half of the fuse block harness to the leads off of my gauge cluster harness as well as the MS2. I did manage to create a redundant connection. I put a 2-pin connector in between the female 12-pin and the MS2 harness for my power lead and the MS2 lead to keep things disconnect-able in the event I pull any of the wiring. I could have accomplished the same thing by bypassing the 12-pin connector completely for the 2-pin, but the two leads were already pinned out in the male half of the 12-pin. It seemed like a waste to remove them. As usual everything was soldered, shrink-wrapped, then tidied with zip-ties. The only thing keeping me from putting the dash top back on; I need to tap into the dimmer switch for the gauge illumination (I ran out of connectors) and I want to run an extra wire through the firewall grommet for the manual fan switch. 

Fuse Block Finished

Picking up from where I left off last time, I recently got to put the dash back together.

It pained me to pull the dash all apart just to get the glove box back out but I think it was worth the trouble. In the last post I introduced "THE hole", a project that turned into a bit of a nightmare with some really dumb mistakes. After fixing everything and getting back on track I moved onto laying down more of the same adhesive back felt I had used under the MS2. This time it would be over the area surrounding where the fuse block is mounted. Originally intended purely for aesthetics, it also doubled as a great way of hiding my repairs.  The material had some stretch to it so I was able to make it appear fairly seamless. After it was all in place I used an exacto knife to trim out the hole for the fuse block to poke through.